Brilliant Arabic instruction in Hebron

My name is Alex and I am British. I am 38 and worked as a lawyer doing human rights for ten years before taking a career break. I spent two months doing an intensive Arabic course (four hours a day) at the Excellence Center.

The Arabic classes were brilliant. My teacher, Saja, was brilliant! I was a complete beginner and the amount of material we covered in two months was incredible. I will spend at least six months after this just going over what I have learned already to consolidate! I learned so much and I have gained confidence in reading, writing and speaking. Saja was very kind, patient, and knowledgeable. And I think she also knows more about the English language than I do! She was able to pitch her teaching to my level and was very encouraging. I couldn’t have asked for better quality teaching. In winter there are fewer students at the center compared to summer, and so most of the time my classes were 1:1. I was not expecting so much individual attention. I think being here is the best way to learn Arabic as you have the opportunity to practice all the time.

In addition to my Arabic classes every day, I was regularly invited to join other volunteers for trips around Hebron, for example to see the Old City and meet with local activists. It was very educational. I learned all about life in the city for Palestinians, what it is like to live under occupation, and how people find ways to live and enjoy their lives as much as possible, despite the limitations imposed. We visited the parts of the city that are controlled by the Israeli army, and I was invited into a number of family homes for dinner. I witnessed a lot of resilience and resistance by Palestinians in Hebron, which was very inspiring. At weekends, on Fridays and Saturdays, I went on trips to visit other parts of the West Bank, such as Bethlehem, Ramallah, the Dead Sea, and Nablus. People cannot move freely in the West Bank due to the military control imposed by Israel. I experienced just a small piece of this - long delays at checkpoints as soldiers check cars and interrogate drivers, closed checkpoints, and as a result lots of traffic jams. I had the opportunity to see quite a lot whilst I was here, but you cannot make plans in the same way that you can in a country with freedom of movement. You have to be flexible depending on the situation and the day.

The environment at the center is really positive. It is like a big family. The staff are all welcoming and kind, and it is interesting to meet the other internationals who come to Hebron from all around the world. Every morning you eat breakfast together and there is a lot of tea and coffee all day! It is a social place and I have made deep and lasting friendships. Whenever I am in Palestine (and I definitely want to come back!) I will come back to Hebron to visit and learn more Arabic.

I arrived in Hebron just before the ceasefire deal was made in Gaza. There was an escalation in military incursions by Israel into the West Bank following this, particularly in the North of the West Bank. There were incidents in the South too - for example raids by soldiers in refugee camps in the South and shootings. Although I always personally felt safe as an international, I will be honest and say it is not easy to witness what is happening in the West Bank. I am fortunate and privileged to be born in a country that is at peace and I have not experienced the instability of living in a country where the situation can change rapidly. I would encourage people to come to the West Bank and experience this because you will develop your empathy and understanding of what life is like for Palestinians here. It is extremely unlikely that something will happen to an international in the West Bank, because we are much safer than anyone else, but I would say you need to have psychological resilience to do this. Witnessing such intense oppression is emotionally and psychologically challenging. And it is important to be challenged sometimes. The learning curve is high and I will be processing what I have learned for a long time. I have absolutely no regrets about going, and I am committed to returning and doing what I can for Palestinians’ freedom.

There have also been many beautiful experiences being in Palestine. Everyone talks about the hospitality culture for a good reason! Palestinians are so kind, so generous, and so friendly. I have been fed so much food! The food is incredibly delicious and you feel the warmth of the people’s generosity. When you walk down the street in Hebron, people come up and talk to you all the time and ask you where you are from, wanting to talk and make friends with you. I have been so moved by the warmth of the culture in Hebron. This is the reason I feel so strongly about doing whatever is in my power to be a good friend and ally to Palestine. The faith, beauty, and kindness of the Palestinians is truly inspiring.